Quick Dynohub Tip #2 - Rusty Dynohub

A rusty dynohub isn't necessarily a dead dynohub. Magnets and armatures can often be freed off and working perfectly again with some WD40 and gentle persuasion. Don't separate them though or they may never work again.

Rusted chrome can be rubbed down and painted. Black looks good. This is not for the restoration purist though.

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7 thoughts on “Quick Dynohub Tip #2 - Rusty Dynohub

  1. James says:

    Hi Vince

    I have been fixing SA Hubs for about 2 months now and have been using various You tube video's as a guide. I have fixed 2 AW Hubs and I tested one today to see if it worked on a bicycle and I am pleased to say it did. There is not much out there for Dyno-hubs. I have recently obtained a 1949 Dyno-Three - which I believe to be an AG MK1. The armature and magnet are not moving very freely - the WD40 method you mentioned above has at last got it so that it does move but movemnt does not feel right. Does the magnet and armature section need to be lubricated in some way? I was thinking about maybe using an elctrical grease. May get back to you about a replacement armature & magnet section. Do you by any chance have any keeper rings for sale.

    Anyway great site, shame I live over a hundred miles away other wise I would be interested in attending yor course.

    All the best


  2. Vince says:

    Hi James,

    Thank you for your very encouraging comment.

    It sounds as though you still have some muck in that generator set. Have another go with the WD40, it is excellent at cleaning where you can't get.

    As far as grease goes, you really can't damage these things by lubricating them, but it does need to be clean first.

    I have one keeper ring in my workshop, which is for workshop use. However you can take these things apart if you have a spare armature. (which gives me an idea for another dynohub tip)

    You mustn't seperate the magnet from the armature but you can move them out of line to clean them. I guess I should make a video to explain how to get these things clean and working.

  3. James says:

    Thank you Vince, the advice is very much appreciated.

    I'll give it another go with the WD40.

  4. James says:

    Hi Vince

    Thank you again for the tips and advice. I tried the hub this morning and the dynamo section worked perfectly it gave out 13.5V AC. The dynamo system on my old Raleigh has a DBU with an FSU system, so it is voltage regulated - I removed the batteries and the lights lit up perfectly when I pedalled.

    I don't know if this would interest you, but a company called Reflectalite does LED replacement bulbs for the old style Sturmey Archer Lights. I have written about them at a forum I use for people who like steel framed hub geared bikes. The link below contains photo's and links to Reflectalite.


    Thanks again for the tips and advice, they have proven to be very helpful for a novice like me.


  5. David says:

    "You mustn’t separate the magnet from the armature but you can move them out of line to clean them. I guess I should make a video to explain how to get these things clean and working."

    I've got this very problem, and trying to understand what you mean here (maybe you DO have that video?). Do you mean that I can move the armature part of the way out of the magnet in order to clean it, just keep most of it intact? Then flip over and do the other side? I've got a 1952 front Dynamo hub that doesn't want to spin freely.

  6. Vince says:

    Yes David that's exactly what I mean. Use pipe cleaners to clean out any muck. I also have a very thin brush which I use.

  7. John Gold says:

    Getting the retaining bolts out is no problem. Putting them back is delicate. I have a small flexible connector with a 5mm socket that does the trick, but still needs the nut to be placed on top of the thread by hand.

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